Monster High Dolls .com

News and Reviews of Monster High Dolls, Plush Toys, and More!

*I will update this first post as I gather answers, and as new questions are asked. Please post your questions and answers as comments on this thread!*

I am in search of answers to a few doll hair questions, so I've decided to start this thread. I hope I catch the eye of a few fellow customizers and get their input. ;) I also hope as information is gathered, this thread will be helpful to others!

**QUESTIONS seeking answers**

  • empty for now


  • Kaplods recommends beginners buy hair from ebonyline meant for weaves. The packages are much cheaper and contain much more hair. It may be a little tougher to manage style-wise, and be sure to read the instructions on packages before heat-styling.
  • All opinions I am offering so far are based off of the rooting technique wherein you fold the length of hair in half and root it into the doll's head with a rooting tool.
  • Ordering nylon hair from dollyhair.comShort length hanks land at the shoulders. Medium lands at the rump. Long can trail all the way to or past the ankles. Barbie hanks are thick enough for the experienced rooter to fully root a MH doll with a thickness equivalent to a factory rooted doll (as long as the style is not too elaborate, i.e. lots of parts in the hair, rooting around ears) . You will not have much leftover for mistakes or optional parts in the hair. Gene hanks will allow for an overly thick reroot, which is ideal for an elaborate hair-do, or a head of hair that can be re-styled and parted in multiple areas. I recommend a gene hank for first-time rooters.
  • Ordering nylon hair from - What quantity of hanks will generally cover an entire MH doll head? The length is close to a long hank and will land at or below the ankles. 3 hanks are good for the experienced rooter who isn't looking to make anything too elaborate, otherwise I'd recommend 4 hanks.
  • There are some good tidbits in the comments below this post, I'll be moving them up here when I have time.

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I'm also curious about the question of where on the head is the best place to start, at where you want it to part or along the base?


Also, what size needle should you use for a reroot for the Monster High dolls?

The amount of hair in each plug kind of depends on the needle you're using, and your personal preference. A smaller needle can make smaller plugs in greater quantity. A larger needle can make thicker plugs and fill in the head with a smaller quantity of holes. It's really up to you, and you'll learn your preference by practicing. I'd say I work in a mid-range. Not too thin and not too thick XD but that's just my opinion and I don't really have anything to compare it to without making an all-out photo tutorial. I do plan to do that (always have) but it's hard for me to find the time and I apologize for not being able to go any further into detail at this time.

PlagueRat said:

Thanks, I should be giving this my first attempt at the weekend when I have some free time so will work from part and hairline and infill :)
One more question, how much hair do you use per plug? I don't wanna use too much (using the rooting tool method btw)

Ah... I always eyeball the size of the needles I use, but maybe I kept the package and can tell you the size. I'll try to dig that up and get back to you.

As for where to start, either the part or the hairline are best. It doesn't matter much, imo, which of the two you start on. You just have to be sure that those get completed before filling the rest in. Sometimes you can criss-cross the parting hairs as you root, or you can do that after the rooting is done (I use a long needle to help me separate and cross the hairs if I do that post-rooting).

Ahra Raven said:

I'm also curious about the question of where on the head is the best place to start, at where you want it to part or along the base?


Also, what size needle should you use for a reroot for the Monster High dolls?

I ordered a small assortment of hair from ebonyline to refresh my memory (this time I'm taking notes), and made an interesting discovery. The cheapest braiding hair ($.99 to $2.69 per huge hanks at least 30 inches long) is too course for most rooting jobs, but it's perfect for glue wigs. The shiny, slippery hair that is great for rooting doesn't work well for glue wigs because it doesn't stick well to any of glues I've used. Each package makes at least three long, very full wigs.

I also discovered the doctored locks website. They're considerably more expensive than ebonyline, but have a lot more fantasy colors and are still much cheaper and more generous than doll hair. Again great for beginners because you can lose/waste a lot of hair and still have plenrty left to reroot at least a couple dolls, and many (but not all) are curling iron safe (at least on a low setting).

Thanks for all the advice, this has been really helpful. My doll is fully rerooted now,using 1 Barbie hank and one RD hank from Dollyhair, with a bit of wastage.
Also I tried wetting the hair with a spray bottle (just to try it out) and found that for a complete beginner like myself it helped me separate the plugs without the remaining hair getting all tangled, and also helped me cross the parting as I went along as it was a little heavier and stayed in place.

One more thing I wanted to add about using  hair meant for human use, is that the hair should be synthetic if you want to use a rooting tool.  Human and animal hair will matt if the hair shafts aren't all rooted in such a way that the hair all falls the way it grew.  This means you can't fold the hair and always have to have all the hair lined up the same direction (unless you WANT the hair to matt, such as for creating dreadlocks).

You CAN  use human or yak hair pieces for rooting, but you have to use the needle and knotting method.

My last tip reminded me of another tip that's especially fun for beginners, or if you like the factory hair and just want to add highlights or lowlights in a different color or colors.  You'll want to use synthetic hair for the reasons mentioned in my last tip.

It's especially good for beginners, because you don't have to remove the dolls head.  You just root in or near the existing pores.  If you use the needle method, you can insert the threaded needle where you want the color and bring it out where you also want the color (for example from one temple to the other, and keep pulling until the hair is of desired length on both sides).

The downside (or upside if you want a tempoary effect) is that the hair will pull out easily with

Dr. Frankendesign,

How much do you charge to do a re-root?

Do you have a page for your services?


@ Carla - I start with the base price of $20, and then theres the cost of the new hair, shipping back and forth, and additional costs for more elaborate hairstyles... I'm not taking anymore commissions for a while though. Gotta concentrate on what I currently have on my plate. :)

@ Marghoul - yes 3 hanks of nylon definitely works, but I usually find saran takes a bit more to really fill in a doll's head... might be because it's messier, not sure. I usually do a gene hank from dollyhair, but haven't tried saran from retro yet.

Marghoul [NO PC] said:

Figured I'd add to this, if it wasn't already mentioned.

As far as the newcomer site,, I was told that three hanks ordered on their site will fully root a Monster High doll. I did, however, inquire about a saran hank, and I'm not sure if they vary from style to style.

Ok, thanks for the answer.



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